Bistro La Bonne

26/11/2012 11:30

Restaurant reviewed Saturday 24th November 2012 | Lunch

So, for the third day in a row, I find myself heading for lunch at Bistro La Bonne. I’m not normally THIS out of control on the dining front but Thursday I was with my best friend and Friday with my mother who thought my account of Thursday sounded great. Now, Saturday, with my husband who was pained to hear of my escapades without him to one of our very favorite haunts! We don’t book as we are going for 12 noon and are confident we will be fine.

We are promptly greeted by a nice young man as we enter the restaurant and get seated. The charming middle aged Frenchman who has served me the two days previous acknowledges me across the room – I love touches like this – when you’ve noticed how great someone in a customer service role has been and then you realise they took the time to notice you also. The surroundings at Bonne are pleasant but not spectacular, they are going for a french bistro look with dark wooden floors, minimal décor and instrumental music sans vocals. Sometimes at beginning of service it can be a littly chilly for my tastes but many tables are right next to radiators and they are always happy to seat you where you feel most comfortable. We are seated next to one of the huge windows looking out onto the cobbles of Correction Wynd. The restaurant is only a few yards from Union Street and the St Nicholas Centre but the hustle and bustle of the city centre seems miles away as we gaze out onto the quiet street watching the autumn leaves and the occasional passerby make their way over the cobbles.

We get the menus and order our drinks. I peruse the selections but husband just wants to order asap as he knew what he was having before we left home. I am set on the tarragon chicken pie but then upon hearing the specials (coq au vin and salmon fishcakes) I change my mind. So husband goes for the club sandwich, I go for the coq au vin and we get some bread and olives to share. They check if we are happy to receive our mains if we are still nibbling on our olives or if we wish to wait – nice attention to details – we give them the green light to keep the food coming!

Bread & Olives

The bread has been chargrilled and is warm and slightly smoky and delicious. The black and green olives are tasty and make a nice sharp contrast to the sweet gooey balsamic glaze at the bottom of the olive oil pot. Just what we were after.

The mains arrive at just the right time and the younger of the two waiters seems genuinely keen that we enjoy them. Husband is pleased with his club sandwich but there is one small difference to how it usually is – there isn’t dill in the mayonnaise. There usually is. The waiter checks with the kitchen but they say it’s just the same. We are not convinced. However, the sandwich is delicious, generously filled with chicken, bacon, salad and mayo. The bacon is smokey and crispy but does not overpower the chicken and the juicy tomato keeps the whole sandwich tasting fresh. A little rocket salad accompanies as does a generous portion of proper skinny French fries. Husband gets given two bowls – one of mayo, one of ketchup, so he can have his favourite fries marie rose. Now, the coq au vin, well my goodness me – there are no words but I’ll try. It was just out of this world! The most perfectly seasoned and balanced coq au vin I’ve ever had. Herbs whole, lardons just the right size, chicken falling off the bone, sauce that packs a real flavour punch but isn’t too much. All accompanied with a large quenelle of mashed potato – not champ, not mashed anything else, not too creamy, just perfect. There’s a certain earthiness to the potatoes that makes me wonder if there’s a tiny hint of saffron or something going on, well I don’t know and to be honest, I don’t really care – I’m too busy enjoying every bite of this quite perfect plate of food. Now, I don’t often restaurant drop (honestly I don’t, read my other reviews) but having eaten at top restaurants all over the world and even had our wedding meal at a 3 Michelin star restaurant in New York, I’m not taking it lightly when I say this is one of the best things I’ve ever eaten. The waiter seems really pleased with how pleased we are agrees to let chef know.

Coq Au Vin

Our plates are cleared and we are very happy diners. Somewhat out of character I know, we’re not sure we want dessert today but get the menu anyway for a look. Oh go on then! We decide to share a vanilla crème brulee and almond shortbread accompanied a couple of cappuccinos. The coffees arrive first and there’s a wee wait for the dessert I’m not bothered as I happily imagine Mr Bonne caramelizing the top of our brulee.

Club Sandwich

So, here it is, and pretty it is too. Nothing too flashy, this is about the food and the presentation is not fussed with which is fine by me. The brulee is hot and caramelized on top, warm just beneath and then cool and creamy towards the bottom. The top give us a nice pleasing ‘crack’ when we tap it and it’s an altogether well executed dish. It’s not very strong on the vanilla so feel it probably could just be called crème brulee (without the vanilla bit) but honestly, this is splitting hairs. The almond shortbread is lovely, but again not awfully almond-like if we are going to be really picky – it doesn’t take away from it though and my husband looks pleased as punch as he uses his half of the shortbread to make a little open faced brulee sandwich. It is also worth mentioning the coffee too, the cappuccino's are always expertly brewed.

Creme Brulee

So, once again, a beautiful lunch from La Bonne. The bill finished up at about £30 which we felt represented good value. Our lovely Frenchman showed my husband his dry sense of humour as we settled the bill which we enjoy and my husband declares that if he were a front of house he’d like to be like that guy – slightly aloof, rather funny with exceptional attention to detail.